Deciding between one more repair and a whole new door
The calls we get usually start the same way: something happened, and the homeowner is not sure how bad it is. The bottom of the door has been wet so many times it has started to give. The door shudders on the way down and no amount of adjusting makes it smooth. Any one of those on its own might be a repair. Two or three together, on a door that has already been patched once, is when we start talking about replacing it. Boynton Beach gets about 57.2 inches of annual precipitation, and most of it lands during the May to October rainy season. September alone drops about 8.4 inches. The lower sections of a door stand in that splash every time it storms, and over the years they take the worst of it. December is our driest month at 2.2 inches, and that dry stretch is often when people finally get around to calling.
What we measure before we order
Nothing gets ordered until we have stood in the garage and looked at the opening. We check the headroom above the opening and the ceiling space where the springs live, since that is where the whole assembly is anchored. We look at the tracks, the framing around the opening, and the floor line, because a floor that has heaved in the middle will show up as a gap under a brand new door. We also want to know what the door is going to weigh, and what has to carry it. The torsion springs and lift cables have to be matched to the door that is actually going up. Ordering hardware for the old door's weight leaves you with a door that will not stay put. If the opening is out of square or the framing has moved, we deal with that before the door goes on. If the opener is older than the door we are about to hang, we tell you straight, because the new door going up does not make a tired motor any stronger.
The springs and cables carry the whole door
The opener pushes and pulls, but the torsion springs overhead are what actually counterbalance the weight, and the lift cables are what raise and lower it. Get that backwards and the whole job makes no sense. If a door has two springs, we replace both when one is broken. The second spring has the same number of cycles on it as the one that just let go. Replacing one and leaving the other means a second service call in a few months, and the door runs unbalanced in the meantime. For an extension-spring system, we route a safety cable through each spring and secure it to the wall or ceiling. That cable is the reason an old extension spring stays where it is instead of sailing across the garage if it breaks.
The day we hang the door
The old door comes down first, and it leaves with us. We would rather haul it off than leave a stack of bent sections against the side of your house. Then the new tracks go up, set level and square to the opening, followed by the spring assembly and the cables. Each section has to sit true against the one below it, hinges aligned, rollers riding where they are supposed to ride. When the door is together, we set the spring tension and cycle the door before the opener is ever connected. Running it manually finds the spot where it binds or drops too fast while it is still easy to fix. We set the opener limits so the door closes against the floor without crushing, and the safety reverse gets tested with an object in the doorway.
What the job costs, and where an opener fits in
We quote the door and the hardware as one number and the opener as its own line, so you can see what each part of the job actually costs. A single lump sum hides the fact that a good chunk of the total may be the motor, not the door. On the door side, the price moves with size, material, insulation, and whether the old door has to come out and be hauled away. If the framing or the tracks around the opening need work, that shows up too. If you are replacing the door and the opener together, the two go in on the same visit and you are not paying for the truck twice. If the opener is being replaced on its own, that is a smaller job and we quote it that way. You get the number before we start.
See the Work
A visual look at what the service involves.
How It Works
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Call or Text
Tell us what you're seeing and when it started, you'll get a straight answer, not a sales pitch.
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No-Pressure Inspections
We come out, measure what's actually happening, and walk you through what we find.
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Know the Price First
We put the fix, the timeline, and the number on paper, take your time with it.
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We Do the Work
Our crew does the work, checks it, and leaves the site clean. You see everything we did.
Depending on what we find, that can mean:
- For a new door, remove the existing door, attach hardware to the sections, place sections in the opening, install the track and rollers, then attach springs and connect cables.
- Before winding torsion springs, secure the door with locking pliers on the vertical track above a roller and use correctly sized solid-steel winding bars.
Pricing Ranges
These are planning ranges. Nothing is final until it is in writing.
$250–$1000
$150–$350
Serving Boynton Beach and Nearby
Serving Boynton Beach, FL. Call (561) 903-1024 to confirm coverage for your address.
The Facts Behind the Number
- Free EstimatesYou pay for work, never for the quote.
- We do what we quotedNo upsells bolted on once we're on site.
- Scheduling that respects your timeA real window, and we keep to it.
- Written quote before any workThe scope goes on paper first, work starts after you've read it.