The signs you actually notice
Most people call us because of water, not because of the seal. There is a wet line on the garage floor after a storm, usually right along the door, sometimes spreading toward whatever is stored nearest the opening. Others notice grit and dead insects swept into a pile at the threshold, or a thin line of daylight under the door when the garage is dark.
A few describe the door rattling in the wind, or a draft they can feel at their ankles. These signs point to a short list of causes: the strip has hardened or torn away, or the door is no longer closing square onto it.
An opening that lets water in also lets it sit against the bottom bracket and hardware. Wet hardware rusts, seizes, and stops adjusting. Replacing a strip is a small job. Replacing what the water ruined is not.
Why a strip that looks fine stops working
The seal is meant to compress every time the door comes down and spring back every time it lifts. Do that thousands of times and it takes a set. The material flattens, loses its memory, and stays squashed instead of pushing back against the floor. From three feet away it looks perfectly fine. Underneath, it is no longer touching anything.
Sun and heat on the face of the door work on it from the other side. The exposed edge dries out, gets stiff, and eventually cracks or tears away from its retainer. Once it is stiff, it will not conform to a floor that is not perfectly flat.
Sometimes the seal is fine and the gap is coming from somewhere else: a door that has drifted out of adjustment, a bottom bracket that has shifted, or a track issue. Putting a new seal on a door that is out of square buys you a few months at best. We look at the whole door before we quote anything.
How we diagnose it before we quote
We close the door and stand inside with the lights off. Any daylight under the door tells us where the gap actually is, and whether it runs the full width or only part of it. Then we run a hand along the bottom edge and feel for the spots where the seal has gone hard, torn, or pulled loose from its retainer. Sides and top get the same treatment, because wind-driven rain does not only come in at the floor.
After that we check the door itself. We look at whether it sits square in the opening, closes hard on one side and lightly on the other, or has rust on the hardware or bottom bracket.
Our trucks carry a socket wrench kit for the door hardware and a drill and drill bits for the spots where a retainer or bracket needs to be re-secured.
What we do so the door cannot move on us
Before winding torsion springs or touching anything on a door with wound springs, we secure the door with locking pliers on the vertical track above a roller and use correctly sized solid-steel winding bars. The pliers are the backstop. They hold the door where it is if something lets go. The winding bars have to be the right diameter for the springs on that door, because a bar that is too small can slip out under load.
For misaligned cable work, we untension the system before reinstalling and re-tensioning the cable. A cable under tension is holding stored energy, and loosening it while the system is loaded is dangerous.
If we open the door up and find a broken spring, we will show you what we found and tell you what it takes.
When the seal is not the whole job
Sometimes the seal is just the symptom. If the bottom section of the door is physically damaged, water pools in that low spot and the seal never seats properly there. If the motor strains, jerks, or reverses on its own, that requires a separate diagnosis.
How big the weather seal job runs depends on a short list: whether it is the bottom only or the bottom, sides, and top; the condition of the retainer the seal mounts into; whether any of the hardware is seized from water exposure; and whether the door needs adjusting so it closes evenly. We look at all four before we give you a number, and we tell you which ones apply to your door.
How It Works
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Call or Text
Tell us what you're seeing and when it started, you'll get a straight answer, not a sales pitch.
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No-Pressure Inspections
We come out, measure what's actually happening, and walk you through what we find.
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Know the Price First
We put the fix, the timeline, and the number on paper, take your time with it.
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We Do the Work
Our crew does the work, checks it, and leaves the site clean. You see everything we did.
Depending on what we find, that can mean:
- For a new door, remove the existing door, attach hardware to the sections, place sections in the opening, install the track and rollers, then attach springs and connect cables.
- Before winding torsion springs, secure the door with locking pliers on the vertical track above a roller and use correctly sized solid-steel winding bars.
Pricing Ranges
These are planning ranges. Nothing is final until it is in writing.
$90–$200
$217–$538
Serving Boynton Beach and Nearby
Serving Boynton Beach, FL. Call (561) 903-1024 to confirm coverage for your address.
The Facts Behind the Number
- Free EstimatesYou pay for work, never for the quote.
- Photos of the finished workYou get pictures of what was done, even the parts you can't see.
- We do what we quotedNo upsells bolted on once we're on site.
- Scheduling that respects your timeWe plan around your day, not a four-hour guess.